Why We Celebrate Cinco de Mayo, Pt. 1

Cinco de Mayo is coming up and Americans are already salivating over all of the tortilla chips, salsa, margaritas, and gooey cheese and refried beans to be consumed on May 5. We're lucky enough to know a few experts on Mexican cuisine; Diana Kennedy, Lucinda Hutson, and now Chef David Sterling have all published authoritative books on the best Mexico has to offer the global palette. Chef Sterling, author of Yucatán: Recipes from a Culinary Expedition, really knows his Mexican cuisine and his history, so we asked him to give us a primer on Cinco de Mayo.

'Conflict and Cuisine: Picking Your Battles Over Dinner'
By David Sterling

Eating special foods to celebrate Victory is nothing new. Dormice dipped in honey and rolled in poppy seeds were a perennial favorite at the feasts following the processions of the famed Roman Triumphs. Closer to our own era, the rather more plebian hot dogs, hamburgers and cherry pie appear annually on the Fourth of July; ratatouille and crêpes Suzette honor Bastille Day festivities; and buñuelos, churros, “puffy tacos”, and other Spanish-American foods are devoured during the remembrance of the heroes at the Alamo in the annual Fiesta San Antonio. And where would Cinco de Mayo be without Tex-Mex enchiladas drowning in chili and molten cheese, washed down with a river of beer and Margaritas? 

What we consume serves as a vivid metaphor of our political and cultural selves; the very zoetic act of ingesting and digesting delicious food is a flamboyant - and pleasurable - way of thumbing one's nose at the vanquished. And for those of us not on the battlefield, our full stomachs and alcoholic buzz are vicarious ways of participating in the victory.

One thing quickly becomes clear from the above menus: you don't have to be French - or Mexican or American - to celebrate and enjoy these victory feasts and their foods. Francophiles around the world rush to purchase the best macarons for their guests on Bastille Day, and college fraternity brothers crowd bars from Seattle to Syracuse to down numberless Coronas and gloopy nachos on Cinco de Mayo.

But once we have gobbled the last crumb of our victory meal, do we really know what we have just been celebrating while we chewed? Probably most people know at least the basics: that citizens stormed a jail known as the Bastille, subsequently igniting the French Revolution; or that Texas defenders booted out Santa Anna's army at the Alamo, which eventually led to Mexico's surrender of Texas to the U.S. - or something like that. Beyond the highlights, the details become murkier.

I believe that this is particularly true of Cinco de Mayo. Take a poll to enquire what the date represents, and it is likely that most respondents will acknowledge that it is “Mexican Pride Day.” Still others will say that the 5th of May corresponds to our 4th of July - Independence Day. And a handful of others will simply glaze over and head for the party.

An interior spread from Yucatán

Of course, Cinco de Mayo has nothing to do with Mexican Independence. The Battle of Puebla, popularly known as “Cinco de Mayo”, was a battle during Napoleon III's so-called French intervention in Mexico, when on 5 May 1862 a small number of Mexican soldiers defending Puebla defeated a much larger French army. As in all histories, victories can be tenuous: in spite of Mexico's victory in this particular battle, the French indeed went on to conquer Mexico - but in yet another reversal of fortune, they were forced out of the country just four years later. Nonetheless, since 1862 Mexicans have honored the Fifth of May as a day of victory, and therefore of Mexican pride.

Posadas Navideñas Recipe from ¡Viva Tequila!

Lucinda Hutson, our go-to party expert, has Feliz Navidad down pat. Kick off Las Posadas, the nine-day Mexican celebration leading up to Christmas, with this anecdote from ¡Viva Tequila! and a recipe for a traditional Mexican Christmas punch, the perfect libation for your holiday fiesta. Pro tip from Lucinda: use a real sugar cane as a stir stick, and wreathe the base of the jar with fresh fruits, greenery, Christmas lights, and ornaments. 

Feliz Navidad, Prospero año y felicidad!

Posadas Navideñas

In villages throughout Mexico, locals partake of celebrations called posadas during the nine days before Christmas. They reenact Mary and Joseph’s pilgrim­age, seeking shelter in Bethlehem. Candlelight processions go door to door, singing and praying, and are turned away until they reach the “inn,” a home predestined for the fiesta. There, the pilgrims gather around an ornate nativity scene. Like most Mexican religious observances, the sacred nature of the posadas soon gives way to merriment—tasty food, piñatas, and steaming cups of ponche for the travelers, sipped from earthenware mugs called jarritos and often spiked with tequila or mezcal.

Many North Americans—especially in the Southwest—also embrace the posada tradition. Luminarias (small paper bags, partially filled with sand, holding a glowing candle) light the way to the door. Whether part of the procession of a posada or simply served in a small gathering, ponche is part of a tradition that most Mexican families look forward to during the holidays. Sharing this drink is a way to assure a “Feliz Navidad, Prospero Año y Felicidad.”On Christmas morning, I simmer a big pot of ponche on my stove. Wafts of enticing and comforting aromas fill my house, bringing back memories of my beloved Mexico. Sometimes this punch is hard to duplicate in the United States because of the unavailability of the exotic fruits. However, Latin American markets and pulgas (flea markets) north of the border stock ponche ingredients during the Christmas season just for this revered tradition.

I love visiting these venues at this time of the year, joining others who come to hand-select fruits and spices, long stalks of sugarcane, crimson jamaica flowers, and cones of brown piloncillo sugar for this annual ritual. I often ask them to share their ponche recipes with me, though it’s usually simply una cuchara, un poquito, or una copita of ingredients (“a spoonful of this,” “a little of that,” or “a little cupful”). Once, in my best Spanish, I told a viejita (old Mexican woman) as she frugally picked a handful of fruit for her Christmas punch, “Voy a hechar tecolotes en mi ponche.” The little woman jumped back, wide-eyed and terrified! The other women around us broke out in merry laughter. I had told her I was going to put owls in my punch! She must have thought I’d been sipping tequila before even making the punch...or was planning to conjure up a dark brujas (witches) brew. 

I meant to say tejocotes, the name for the small, hard, black-speckled orangish fruits that are a favorite seasonal ingredient for ponche. These fruits come from various species of Mexican hawthorn trees and taste rather like crabapples, although tejocotes are usually about half the size, with several big, hard seeds. Tart and mealy until cooked, tejocotes produce a pectin that naturally thickens the ponche and are a highly sought-after and expensive ingredient during the holidays. 

Though traditional ponche calls for many ingredients, it’s easy to make. I have allowed for a choice of substitutions in my version. You’ll find that tropical fruit nectars add flavor when the more unusual fresh fruits are not available. Dried apricots, prunes, cherries, and apples may be substituted as needed, and a handful of fresh cranberries adds pleasing tartness (see note following recipe).

Ponche Navideño

Traditional Christmas Punch

Serve Mexico’s beloved Christmas punch from clay jarritos or small mugs and spike with your favorite tequila or mezcal—or a splash of both! Provide a spoon for eating the stewed fruit. It’s delicious for a holiday gathering that might include Mexican Wedding Cookies, crispy buñuelos, polvorones (cinnamon-sprinkled sugar cookies), or pan dulce pastries from your favorite Mexican bakery.

Ring in the Holidays with Tequila!

Terroir meets territory on Wednesday, December 4 as the University of Texas Press partners with the UT Austin Libraries on the second installment in the Libraries’ new cartography series, “You Are Here.” This month, the series will highlight rare maps of Mexico, part of the university’s Benson Latin American Collection and currently on view in the exhibition “Mapping Mexican History: Territories in Dispute, Identities in Question" with a special focus on the crossroads of historic and contemporary culture of Mexico, its traditions…and tequila, of course! The evening’s speaker will be Lucinda Hutson, America’s premier tequila expert and author of ¡Viva Tequila! Cocktails, Cooking, and Other Agave Adventures, published by UT Press this April.

Hutson will talk about the history of the region and the rise of Mexico’s most notable contribution to the world of distilled spirits and share personal anecdotes and recipes gathered from her travels. Guests will also have the opportunity to view historical maps of Mexico, including rare examples of hand-illustrated Relaciones Geográficas from the Benson’s collections, to help place the story of tequila into geographical context.

The program will be followed by book signing of Viva Tequila – books will be available for purchase at the event – and a tequila tasting (limited to adults over 21 with ID) provided by Dulce Vida Tequila. KOOP’s (91.7FM) dj t-kay will provide the evening’s music.

The “You Are Here” cartography series is designed to highlight the university’s renowned collection of maps. Events take place four times annually and feature items curated by specialists from cartography collections across The University of Texas at Austin campus.

“You Are Here: ¡Viva Tequila!”
Wednesday, December 4, 6p.m.
Benson Latin American Collection, Sid Richardson Hall (SRH) 1.108, The University of Texas at Austin

This event is free and open to the public.

UT Press at the Texas Book Festival

This weekend, the University of Texas Press and 15 of our authors will enjoy the 18th annual Texas Book Festival on the Capitol grounds in downtown Austin and environs. We'll have a booth on Colorado Street (Exhibitor Tent #4) with tons of titles for sale at a great discount. There are a lot of great authors in attendance (R.L. Stine just in time for Halloween!), so we’ve distilled our authors' appearances into a single UT Press schedule:

Saturday

12:00 PM — 1:00 PM

TWO PROSPECTORS: The Letters of Sam Shepard and Johnny Dark
Location: Capitol Extension Room E2.028
Authors: Chad Hammett 
Moderator: Rebecca Beegle

"A bright pathway directly into the hearts and minds of two compelling men."—Kirkus Reviews

Nonfiction / Biography 

12:30 PM - 1:30 PM
2013 TEXAS BOOK FESTIVAL POSTER PHOTOGRAPHER
Location: The Contemporary Austin--Jones Center (700 Congress)
Authors: Randal Ford
Moderator: T.J. Tucker

Randal Ford is the photographer for the UT Press book The Amazing Faith of Texas, an exploration in words and pictures of people and places that represent the strong, abiding belief that sustains faith-filled Texans. Ford is in conversation with Texas Monthly creative director T.J. Tucker.

Texas Coffee Table / Photography / Art

1:00 PM — 2:00 PM

BACK BY POPULAR DEMAND

The Salt Lick Cookbook with Scott Roberts

Location: Central Market Cooking Tent

“The book’s charm lies in the affectionate family history that began when Scott Roberts’ great-grandfather bought the land way back in the nineteenth century. The recipes keep memories of a great meal alive…”— Jane Manaster, Portland Book Review

Food / Cooking

15 UT Press Authors Coming to the Texas Book Festival

The Texas Book Festival announced their 2013 lineup of authors today. This year's festival takes place October 26th & 27th in and around the Texas State Capitol in downtown Austin. We are pleased to have fourteen of our authors presenting UT Press books!

Poster photograph by Randal Ford (The Amazing Faith of Texas)

For the full roster of authors, visit www.texasbookfestival.org/Authors.

Ricardo Ainslie

The Fight to Save Juarez: Life in the Heart of Mexico's Drug War

Austin Film Festival

On Story—Screenwriters and Their Craft

Donna De Cesare
Unsettled / Desasosiego

Eric Draper

Front Row Seat: A Photographic Portrait of the Presidency of George W. Bush

David Ensminger

Mojo Hand: The Life and Music of Lightnin' Hopkins

Roy Flukinger

Arnold Newman: At Work

Randal Ford
The Amazing Faith of Texas: Common Ground on Higher Ground

Kate Galbraith

The Great Texas Wind Rush: How George Bush, Ann Richards, and a Bunch of Tinkerers Helped the Oil and Gas State Win the Race to Wind Power

Chad Hammett

The Two Prospectors: The Letters of Sam Shepard and Johnny Dark

Stephen Harrigan

The Eye of the Mammoth: Selected Essays

Lucinda Hutson

¡Viva Tequila!: Cocktails, Cooking, and Other Agave Adventures

Diana Kennedy

My Mexico: A Culinary Odyssey with Recipes, Updated Edition

Asher Price

The Great Texas Wind Rush: How George Bush, Ann Richards, and a Bunch of Tinkerers Helped the Oil and Gas State Win the Race to Wind Power

John Rohrbach

Color: American Photography Transformed

Robb Walsh

Barbecue Crossroads: Notes and Recipes from a Southern Odyssey


These TBF 2013 authors previously published with UT Press, with one forthcoming book from Bill Minutaglio:

H. W. Brands

Greenback Planet: How the Dollar Conquered the World and Threatened Civilization as We Know It

Joe Lansdale

Sanctified and Chicken-Fried: The Portable Lansdale

Bill Minutaglio

In Search of the Blues: A Journey to the Soul of Black Texas

and 

Coming Spring 2014: City on Fire: The Explosion that Devastated a Texas Town and Ignited a Historic Legal Battle 

Mother's Day Gift Ideas

We here at UT Press hope all of your mothers are book fans, because we have some fabulous selections to recommend as Mother’s Day gifts. (Mother’s Day, in case you haven’t noticed, is coming up soon on Sunday, May 12!). Our classic recommendations for Moms cover the domestic gamut – cookbooks and gardening guides – but we’ve also got a few titles that go a little bit deeper.

Food

Oaxaca al Gusto by Diana Kennedy
Certainly not another collection of casserole recipes, Diana Kennedy’s magnum opus of Mexican cuisine truly delves into the cultural gastronomy of the diverse and remote state of Oaxaca. Organized by regions, these three hundred plus recipes will provide your Mother with an almost guru-like knowledge of the three pillars of Oaxacan cuisine —chocolate, corn, and chilies.

The Herb Garden Cookbook by Lucinda Hutson
Long before the urban farm and DIY foodie movement, Lucinda Hutson published this book, which provides both helpful gardening tips for growing ingredients for your kitchen, and plentiful recipes to test out your skills. Lucinda provides artful guidance for menu planning and creative recipes for exotic herbs, as well as practical advice for harvesting and storing them. 

Stirring It Up with Molly Ivins by Ellen Sweets
Everybody’s mother is capable of putting someone in his/her place, or should be. Molly Ivins was no exception. Although she had no children of her own, she played surrogate mom to her friends’ children. As the witty political reporter, her scathing Texas Observer pieces put untrustworthy politicians in their place. Longtime friend and fellow reporter Ellen Sweets shares Molly’s recipes (traditional Texan and fine French cuisine!), escapades, and inner strength.

Memoir/Nonfiction

Let the People In by Jan Reid
As one of the ultimate inspirational but real women, Ann Richards changed the face of her state as the first ardent feminist elected to high office in Texas. The Texas State Historical Association awarded author Jan Reid the Liz Carpenter Award for Research in the History of Women for this absorbing biography of a mother who balanced the pressures of government, overcame her personal demons, and raised four children while remaining a funny, unique, and beautiful public figure.

Welcome to Utopia by Karen Valby
This book by Karen Valby, a senior writer at Entertainment Weekly, is a no-brainer in terms of gifts for Mom. Quintessential American stories of family and community are tenderly rendered as Valby saw them play out in the small Texas town of Utopia. The book’s real life protagonists and their stories are very moving, revealing just how much they affected Valby in light of her original assignment: to find an American town without popular culture.
 

Gardening

Texas Gardening the Natural Way by Howard Garrett

If your mom has a green thumb, no matter where she may garden, Howard Garrett’s complete organic gardening guide is the end-all, be-all for conscientious gardening. Covering everything from trees, soils, design, shrubs, annuals and perennials, herbs, grasses, fruits, nuts, and vegetables to organic pest control and plant diseases, all fully illustrated with 833 full-color photos.

Additional recommendations:
Dear Dirt Doctor by Howard Garrett
100 Love Sonnets by Pablo Neruda
Don’t Make Me Go to Town by Rhonda Lashley Lopez